Wheel bearings let your trailer hubs spin smoothly under heavy loads and high heat. If they run dry or overheat, you risk seized hubs, damaged spindles, and catastrophic wheel loss. Learning how to repack RV wheel bearings the right way keeps your rig rolling safely and prevents expensive roadside repairs.
Why Wheel Bearing Service Matters
Towing loads, brake heat, and water intrusion (from rain or creek crossings) break down bearing grease. Without fresh lubrication and proper preload, bearings can:
- Overheat and discolor (blueing)
- Pit and spall, sending metal shavings into the hub
- Fail suddenly, damaging the hub, spindle, and brakes
If you’d rather have a pro handle it, book a service with Daisy RV—we pack to spec and verify torque, endplay, and seal integrity.
Signs Your Bearings Need Attention
- Grease streaks on the inside of wheels or backing plates
- Excess play when rocking the tire at 12 and 6 o’clock
- Rumbling or grinding noise while towing
- Heat at the hub after a short drive (too hot to touch is a red flag)
Any of these means it’s time to learn how to repack RV wheel bearings the right way—or schedule an inspection at Daisy RV.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
- Floor jack and jack stands (rated for your axle weight)
- Lug wrench/torque wrench (correct spec for your lugs)
- Pliers, flat screwdriver, and channel locks
- Bearing packer (or clean, gloved hands)
- High-temperature wheel bearing grease (NLGI #2, GC-LB rated)
- New grease seals and cotter pins (or tang washer, per axle design)
- Brake cleaner, rags, nitrile gloves
- Dial indicator (optional) for precise endplay
Step-by-Step: How to Repack RV Wheel Bearings the Right Way
- Secure and Lift
- Chock opposite wheels. Loosen lug nuts ¼ turn. Jack under the axle tube near the spring seat and support with stands. Remove the wheel.
- Remove Dust Cap and Retainer
- Pry off the dust cap. Remove cotter pin and castellated nut cap (or bend tang washer flat). Spin off the spindle nut and washer.
- Pull the Hub/Drum
- Slide the hub/drum off the spindle. Catch the outer bearing as it comes free.
- Remove the Grease Seal
- Lay the hub face-down on wood. Pry out the inner grease seal without scoring the bore. Remove the inner bearing.
- Clean Everything
- Use brake cleaner to clean bearings, races (cups), spindle, and the hub cavity. Blow dry with low air or allow to air-dry. Inspect races and rollers for pitting, scoring, blueing, or flaking—replace as a set (bearing + race) if damaged.
- Pack the Bearings
- With a bearing packer or by hand, force fresh grease through the bearing until it extrudes from the opposite side between rollers. Do both inner and outer thoroughly.
- Install Inner Bearing and New Seal
- Grease the race lightly. Seat the packed inner bearing, then drive in a new grease seal squarely using a seal driver. Don’t reuse old seals—they leak.
- Reinstall Hub
- Lightly grease the spindle journals. Slide the hub back on carefully to avoid nicking the seal. Insert the outer bearing, washer, and spindle nut.
- Set Bearing Preload/Endplay
- Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the hub to seat bearings, then back off. Re-tighten by hand to snug and set endplay. Typical spec: 0.001″–0.005″ endplay (slight detectable movement). If you lack a dial indicator, aim for just-perceptible play at the hub with no bind. Install the cotter pin (or bend tang washer) and cap.
- Reinstall Wheel and Torque
- Mount the wheel. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s spec (often 90–120 ft-lb for many trailer wheels—verify your spec). Lower the RV. After 25–50 miles, re-torque lugs.
Torque, Endplay, and Seal Tips
- Too tight = overheated bearings; too loose = wobble and race damage.
- Always use new seals; a $5 part can save a $500 hub.
- If a bearing or race shows any pitting or heat discoloration, replace both as a matched set. Need parts sourced and pressed correctly? Daisy RV can help.
Service Intervals (General Guidance)
- Inspection & repack: every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.
- Boat-trailer style immersion or frequent rain/dust: service more often.
- After a brake service or hub removal, repack and set preload again.
Safety and Best Practices
- Support the axle securely—never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep grease clean—avoid mixing types or contaminating with dirt.
- Replace any damaged dust caps, cotter pins, or tang washers.
- Spin-test: after assembly, the hub should spin freely with no grind.
Knowing how to repack RV wheel bearings the right way gives you smooth-rolling hubs, cooler temperatures, and confidence on every mile. Prefer a certified tech to handle the mess and measurements? Schedule a bearing service with Daisy RV and hit the road worry-free.